<20:14:20> "Allen - AE7TG": Opened and
assembled through step 3
<20:14:56> "Anthony WR3T": Opened, but
my workbench is out of commission for the next couple weeks.
<20:15:02> "AllanK - W0NLY": Allan has
done all three items requested.
<20:15:38> "W0BM Pat": pat w0bm has it
<20:17:07> "W0BM Pat": and i also am
through step 3.
<20:20:05> "Carl W2PTZ": Cannot do any
testing until we get back in our home in 4-6 weeks.
<20:20:06> "AllanK - W0NLY": It wasn't
clear in the original manual that the J4 power connector shown on
the silk screen on the board has been "replaced" by wires to be
soldered to the holes in the board.
<20:21:26> "Allen - AE7TG": I noticed
the same as W0NLY, reading the original manual lead to the answer
that the J4 was in the 'extra' connector kit of the original SW30+
(.100 spaced header pins worked for me)
<20:24:40> "W0BM Pat": what size is the
power connector? 5.5 X 2.5? The power jack does not connect the
barrel of the power plug. looks like the wiper was bent down a bit
in the jack. Just using wires now for testing. If i know the size,
I can get another jack...
<20:28:46> "Mike WA8BXN": I think it is
5.5x2.5. most of my gear uses 5.5x2.1 so I replaced what came in
the kit with that size
<20:30:02> "George N2APB": It is a
2.5mm center conductor coaxial power jack. Since it is a bit less
common, we included the mating plug for it in the kit.
<20:42:29> "Matt kk4fem": powerpole
adapters for everything!
<20:46:10> "Obe - KC4VZT": Mine was
sitting at 2.389 MHz until I spread the windings, and it is now
<20:46:31> "Larry K3PEG": Best to just
tack solder that toroid in place until proper freq is determined.
<20:52:10> "Allen - AE7TG": Just a
note: The VFO in the block diagram on today’s whiteboard specifies 3
- 3.05 MHz (probably for a SW40+)
<20:52:35> "George N2APB": great catch,
<20:54:50> "AllanK - W0NLY": A
practical question: How do you know which tab on a pot should be
treated as the "bottom" end (usually ground end) so that the pot
behaves as normally expected (volume increases as shaft is turned
clockwise)? Looking at J2, how do you know which pot tab goes to
pin 1 and which goes to pin 3?
<20:54:59> "Obe - KC4VZT": It was in
Dave's manual that's how I decided to change the distribution of
<20:59:13> "Harold N0JUG": K7QO redrew
the SW-30+ schematic back in the day. I found a copy at
www.aa0zz.com. It is a bit easier to read.
<21:00:05> "Larry K3PEG": The White
Paper description on theory of operation pertains to the 40 meter
xcvr, not the SW-30+.
<21:00:33> "George N2APB": yup. can
tune that too
<21:02:44> "Allen - AE7TG": I'm using
the Accuprobe (desinged by N2CX) and kitted and sold by Texas QRP I
believe... any idea what voltage would be reasonable with it, using
the LO setting on the probe?
<21:03:17> "Matt kk4fem":
<21:03:48> "Allen - AE7TG": Thanks
<21:05:29> "Joe N2CX": The Acccuprobe
is calibrated to read RMS voltage while the voltages in the manual
are peak-to-peak. To convert peak to peak to RMS you divide by
2.83. Alternatively, to convert rms to peak-to-peak you multiply by
<21:09:15> "Obe - KC4VZT": Yeah most
spectrum analyzers are 50 ohm not 1 meg.
<21:11:31> "Allen - AE7TG": I have an
older scope but no experience with it, any recommendations on a text
to get started with?
<21:13:39> "Obe - KC4VZT": I use
rubbing alcohol which works pretty good at removing solder flux on
<21:15:56> "Matt kk4fem": Allen, check
out w2aew's youtube channel, he's got some good introductory videos
<21:16:02> "Larry K3PEG": I use high
purity (very low water content) isopropyl alcohol. I heard that drug
stores may stock it. Rubbing alcohol leaves behind "white" spots on
<21:16:32> "Larry K3PEG": Receive
current is 30-40 mA
<21:16:37> "Rick K3IND": Isn't there
such a thing as water-based flux?
<21:17:34> "Joe N2CX": There is, but I
don't like the water-based stuff. Also lead free solder is baaaad!
<21:17:34> "Carl-- AA9RF": yes,... Most
newer solder does use water based flux
<21:18:23> "Larry K3PEG": You may want
to coat the sanded edges of the pretty red kit box with a RED Magic
marker pen. Looks neat, IMHO.
<21:18:45> "Joe N2CX": Good tip Larry!
<21:22:27> "Obe - KC4VZT": It was fun
and looks pretty when finished.
<21:23:25> "Larry K3PEG": I always
scrape away the enamel from a side of the wire before applying
solder- always tin up to the edge of the toroid.
<21:24:22> "Joe N2CX": Alas the AADE
proprietor is an SK and I don't think anyone else picked it up.
<21:24:43> "Matt kk4fem": They are no
longer selling the AADE meter...I found a kit from G4HUP as an
<21:24:52> "Mike WA8BXN": I've been
assembling a board using the kit provided parts and posting my
comments on the yahoo web page
<21:25:21> "Carl-- AA9RF": Larry Nice
thing about the "Solder-Ease" type is NO more scraping :) Just
pre-tin and go...
<21:26:19> "George N2APB": NEXT EPISODE
IS IN 2 WEEKS ... JUNE 28 ... SEE YOU THEN, AND BUILD THOSE KITS!
<21:26:21> "Carl W2PTZ": Need a good
place to get an anti static mat
<21:26:39> "Larry K3PEG": Guys, take a
look at this $23 device-->
<21:27:41> "Carl-- AA9RF": AADE L/C
Meter MAY,... Still be available from memorsex.com Milestone
<21:27:44> "Obe - KC4VZT": Jameco has a
11.25" x 22 " anti-static mat for 8.95